Kurikuma
25 Konoemachi, Shimochoja-dori, Muromachi Nishi-iru
Kyoto, Japan
Off the beaten-path, just perpendicular to the Kurisuma-Dori that runs along the side of the Imperial Palace, you find a little fusuma slider flanked by a few bins of humble ceramic cups, bowls, and the like, each one looking for a home.
Kurikuma was my favorite full-meal dining experience in Kyoto. We walked two blocks from the hotel and over to the left by one block. We were greeted with so much warmth and hospitality at the front door by an eager young woman, assisting her family with the run of the place. There were some stubby looking tables that ran along the window side, and I remember looking at them and thinking, "I wonder if my legs will fit under those things." Well, I side-sat, and it worked out just fine.
When you walk in, the first thing you see is a communal round table, lit as almost a display and elevated off the floor by 6 inches, lined with tatami mats. It was "reserved."
The young gal and her dad had big smiles on their faces, even while they were entertaining a young exchange-student party upstairs. We had the entire downstairs to ourselves. It was a little cool, so I kept my blazer on, but I was looking forward to the decision I would make amid so many different images on the "picture menu", even with English descriptions!
Don't expect to find napkins at the table, anywhere, in Japan. It is unbelievable to have a napkin, unless you're in Tokyo and dining at a western establishment. Most places that are nice will give you a little plastic wrap that contains a hot, moist towel to wipe-wash your hands with as soon as you sit down at your table.
Good thing I packed some Kleenex -- which ends up saving you too when you try out the bathrooms. That's another story. Note: Take lots of tissue packs when you travel to Japan. No napkins, or paper towels, anywhere!
House Sake, Hot
We began with a hot sake, nice start. It was probably about 3 oz worth, served in an anthropomorphic body cylinder jar. Typical for decanting the drink.
When she brought the sake jars, she followed the delivery with a basket full of colorful, glazed ceramic cups for sipping. This process was interactive, engaging us with the art of preparing our own presentation by choosing a personal goblet.
These same baskets of cups parallel to the baskets of ceramics we saw outside on the street, just outside the entry fusuma panel. The restaurant sells these handmade ceramics on the side. I should have purchased one right then and there. We were going to come back just to buy one but ran out of time in the end.
Flipping through the menu, I didn't have to think twice. I would order broiled anago... eel. The photo alone sold it to me, and also the sweet smell that was drifting from the kitchen and over the counter in my direction.
I've had anago a few times before, but it's always been sashimi-style.
Broiled Anago
Here came the meal in courses, served on a large serving tray. I could quite get used to this tapas way of presenting the meal. I had probably 5 assorted sides, and then eel on top of this.
When you order a menu item in Japan, it typically is accompanied by a bowl of rice, miso soup, 3 little dishes of pickled vegetables, and then there is the little dish of surprise sauce for dipping (a recommended sauce by them). Of course you'll find a bottle of soy sauce at the table, but don't use it if they give you another sauce to try.
The pickled veggies that you see are enhanced by a slightly-sweet sauce that is thinned. Hard to explain, you just have to try it. The little balls that are tossed in are a sort of starch, similar to potato. It's not gobo, but they are like mini potato balls, denser in fact.
A little bowl of cold tofu is also standard on the side dishes. We almost always received a little block of tofu, and in some cases, we received mounds! The tofu is always better in Japan. You can taste a more smooth consistency and gentle flavor. Some restaurants play with the preserve of the tofu, enhancing the flavor with a liquor, milk, soy sauce, or seasoning.
My eel was savory and heavenly. It was tender and broiled with a crust on the outside, touched by a drizzle of a sweet, thickened soy sauce (like teriyaki), and on the inside the flakes were so smooth and tender. It really did have a flavor that is similar to chicken, but a consistency that is similar to salmon.
Warm Udon noodles with Egg, Meat, Onions
My friend enjoyed a classic traditional bowl of warm udon noodles and broth, topped with an egg (another staple in their diet, always!), sliced beef, sauteed sweet onions, chopped scallions, and stock flavor. This is a good comfort bowl, straight up and easy. I'd had so many eggs though the last few days, it was nice for me to have a break.
One things for sure, for Vegans... Japan is not going to be on your destination list for cuisine. It'd be rude to walk into a restaurant and expect to eat like a Vegan. Sorry to break that bad news.
I'm happy that the Lord gave me the gift of eating anything; we tried everything we saw on our path, and in some cases,we even went out of our way on the journey (to an island!) to try those spoken-of items that seemed too good to miss!
Oishii! Kurikuma is a real find. Hidden-gem.
Cheers:
The meal came to about $19, including the sake. Sake here is was only around 550 yen.
Yummy yummy meal. This should have been in the Time-Out guide for Kyoto. They missed out, though I'd rather keep this my secret so that I can always be guaranteed to find a seat here. Don't forget, restaurants close early in Kyoto. We arrived here around 6pm. Lucky for us, it was just in time for the last seating.
The family running the restaurant was so generous and sincere to us, helpful the entire time! We enjoyed interacting with them and thanking them at the end of the meal. It was so good! There are many more dishes to try here, so I have to come back and try them all. Everything was oishii.
Kyoto, Japan
Off the beaten-path, just perpendicular to the Kurisuma-Dori that runs along the side of the Imperial Palace, you find a little fusuma slider flanked by a few bins of humble ceramic cups, bowls, and the like, each one looking for a home.Kurikuma was my favorite full-meal dining experience in Kyoto. We walked two blocks from the hotel and over to the left by one block. We were greeted with so much warmth and hospitality at the front door by an eager young woman, assisting her family with the run of the place. There were some stubby looking tables that ran along the window side, and I remember looking at them and thinking, "I wonder if my legs will fit under those things." Well, I side-sat, and it worked out just fine.
When you walk in, the first thing you see is a communal round table, lit as almost a display and elevated off the floor by 6 inches, lined with tatami mats. It was "reserved."
The young gal and her dad had big smiles on their faces, even while they were entertaining a young exchange-student party upstairs. We had the entire downstairs to ourselves. It was a little cool, so I kept my blazer on, but I was looking forward to the decision I would make amid so many different images on the "picture menu", even with English descriptions!Don't expect to find napkins at the table, anywhere, in Japan. It is unbelievable to have a napkin, unless you're in Tokyo and dining at a western establishment. Most places that are nice will give you a little plastic wrap that contains a hot, moist towel to wipe-wash your hands with as soon as you sit down at your table.
Good thing I packed some Kleenex -- which ends up saving you too when you try out the bathrooms. That's another story. Note: Take lots of tissue packs when you travel to Japan. No napkins, or paper towels, anywhere!
House Sake, HotWe began with a hot sake, nice start. It was probably about 3 oz worth, served in an anthropomorphic body cylinder jar. Typical for decanting the drink.
When she brought the sake jars, she followed the delivery with a basket full of colorful, glazed ceramic cups for sipping. This process was interactive, engaging us with the art of preparing our own presentation by choosing a personal goblet.These same baskets of cups parallel to the baskets of ceramics we saw outside on the street, just outside the entry fusuma panel. The restaurant sells these handmade ceramics on the side. I should have purchased one right then and there. We were going to come back just to buy one but ran out of time in the end.
Flipping through the menu, I didn't have to think twice. I would order broiled anago... eel. The photo alone sold it to me, and also the sweet smell that was drifting from the kitchen and over the counter in my direction.
I've had anago a few times before, but it's always been sashimi-style.
Broiled AnagoHere came the meal in courses, served on a large serving tray. I could quite get used to this tapas way of presenting the meal. I had probably 5 assorted sides, and then eel on top of this.
When you order a menu item in Japan, it typically is accompanied by a bowl of rice, miso soup, 3 little dishes of pickled vegetables, and then there is the little dish of surprise sauce for dipping (a recommended sauce by them). Of course you'll find a bottle of soy sauce at the table, but don't use it if they give you another sauce to try.
The pickled veggies that you see are enhanced by a slightly-sweet sauce that is thinned. Hard to explain, you just have to try it. The little balls that are tossed in are a sort of starch, similar to potato. It's not gobo, but they are like mini potato balls, denser in fact.A little bowl of cold tofu is also standard on the side dishes. We almost always received a little block of tofu, and in some cases, we received mounds! The tofu is always better in Japan. You can taste a more smooth consistency and gentle flavor. Some restaurants play with the preserve of the tofu, enhancing the flavor with a liquor, milk, soy sauce, or seasoning.
My eel was savory and heavenly. It was tender and broiled with a crust on the outside, touched by a drizzle of a sweet, thickened soy sauce (like teriyaki), and on the inside the flakes were so smooth and tender. It really did have a flavor that is similar to chicken, but a consistency that is similar to salmon.
Warm Udon noodles with Egg, Meat, OnionsMy friend enjoyed a classic traditional bowl of warm udon noodles and broth, topped with an egg (another staple in their diet, always!), sliced beef, sauteed sweet onions, chopped scallions, and stock flavor. This is a good comfort bowl, straight up and easy. I'd had so many eggs though the last few days, it was nice for me to have a break.
One things for sure, for Vegans... Japan is not going to be on your destination list for cuisine. It'd be rude to walk into a restaurant and expect to eat like a Vegan. Sorry to break that bad news.
I'm happy that the Lord gave me the gift of eating anything; we tried everything we saw on our path, and in some cases,we even went out of our way on the journey (to an island!) to try those spoken-of items that seemed too good to miss!
Oishii! Kurikuma is a real find. Hidden-gem.
Cheers:
The meal came to about $19, including the sake. Sake here is was only around 550 yen.
Yummy yummy meal. This should have been in the Time-Out guide for Kyoto. They missed out, though I'd rather keep this my secret so that I can always be guaranteed to find a seat here. Don't forget, restaurants close early in Kyoto. We arrived here around 6pm. Lucky for us, it was just in time for the last seating.
The family running the restaurant was so generous and sincere to us, helpful the entire time! We enjoyed interacting with them and thanking them at the end of the meal. It was so good! There are many more dishes to try here, so I have to come back and try them all. Everything was oishii.
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